Mulled Apple Cider — For the First Cool Evening

There is a specific evening in September when the temperature drops for the first time in months and something in you recognizes the change before you've consciously registered it. This is the drink for that evening. Fresh-pressed cider — cloudy, unfiltered, pressed from whole apples — mulled with warm spices until the kitchen smells unmistakably like the season turning. Where fresh-pressed cider isn't available, a good cloudy, unfiltered apple juice is an excellent substitute. Add brandy, dark rum, or bourbon for the adult version.

Serves 4–6   ·   25 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 1 litre (4 cups) fresh-pressed apple cider or good cloudy apple juice

• 2 cinnamon sticks

• 6 whole cloves

• 3 star anise

• 4 cardamom pods, lightly crushed

• 1 thumb fresh ginger, sliced into coins

• 1 orange, sliced into rounds

• 1 lemon, sliced into rounds

• 2 tablespoons raw honey or maple syrup, to taste

• Optional: 100ml (3½ oz) brandy, dark rum, or bourbon, added off the heat

METHOD

1.  Combine the cider, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, cardamom, ginger, and half the citrus slices in a medium saucepan.

2.  Heat over medium-low heat until steaming and deeply fragrant, about 15 minutes. Do not boil — a rolling boil drives off the volatile aromatic compounds that make mulled cider worth making.

3.  Taste and stir in honey or maple syrup to your preference. It should be warm and balanced, not sugary.

4.  Remove from heat. If making the adult version, stir in the spirit now so the alcohol doesn't cook off.

5.  Strain into mugs, add a fresh slice of orange to each, and serve immediately.